RAMBLING AND SCRAMBLING

Panormo to Skepasti

We made the most of the beautiful spring weather by planning a walk along what would be called the coastal path in the UK except that here along the North Coast of Crete there is not what you would call a footpath – as such. Still, Brod the Guide for this excursion had done the walk before and we met at Base Camp (the Cafeneon in Panormo outside the Bakers) at 0900 hours on Thursday. After a long glass of water and a metrio (small, semi-sweet Greek coffee in a tiny cup) we set off with our Archeology hats and fibre glass walking poles. I was a bit self-conscious carrying this hikers equipment but we soon found out that we would need them.

We trudged up the path past the cemetery and around the cliff amongst a large flock of goats – all with bells donging and clunking. The path was good at this point – well rutted with tracks of 4 x 4 vehicles until we turned into a dip between the coast cliff where the lighthouse is and another lower hill. The terrain was easy with herbs, wild flowers and small rocks on either side. Eventually though we reached the point of no return and planning our assault on bandit country, we telephoned HQ (Brod and Carolynn's house) in case a search party needed to find us!

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At this point the ramble turned into a bit of a scramble and we hair-pinned up amongst rocks and gorse bushes on a very steep slope with a fence along the top. I was using my walking pole to lever me over difficult jumps and puffing slightly, as we reached the fence and tried to decide how to tackle the next field which was entirely enclosed with wire fencing. Unhitching the wires of the fence and slipping through (this was much more of a struggle than it sounds and we were grateful for our walking poles to keep our balance) we mended all the fences as we went and crossed two or three enclosures until we reached a large radio/telephone antennae on the top of the hill. At this point, we sat down on large rocks amongst the butterflies, sipped from our water bottles and soaked up the vista of the mountain ranges, hill farms and patchwork carpets of olive and orange groves before us. The national road looked minuscule and we worked out the various towns and villages in the living map in front of us. The birdsong was uplifting and all around our feet, little crickets jumped in all directions to avoid our boots. If my hands had not been full, I would have been tempted to pick some of the wild oregano growing amongst the rocks. As it was, I took a few photos and slowed down to pull grass seeds, thistle and gorse prickles out of my trainers at regular intervals.

There was only one more gateway to negotiate after this but it was padlocked so another fence unhitching and hitching was required and after this the tracks were easy to follow from here on – all down hill. The height of the cliffs (all volcanic rock) were very high and the little coves over the edge remote, but it was much too high and steep to investigate too closely. We met an Albanian shepherd who asked if all the fences were OK and we assured him that all the fences were sound in our wake!

It was very hot – nearly mid day as we trudged down the back lanes into the village, but the walk (4 miles or so) had been well worth the initial scramble. After a cooling drink in Skepasti, we drove back to HQ in Panormo where Carolynn had made one of her famous soups. I think we will have to collaborate and produce a recipe book entitled Carolynn's Cretan Soupbowl Recipes; it is either the fresh produce, herbs or seasonings, (or C's secret ingredient) that makes them such a winner. Deeee-licious!