EITHER A VERY BAD TANNING SALON ... OR I'VE BEEN TANGO-D!

Normal service will be resumed as soon as possible.  Ma Crozier has just spent twelve days in two Greek hospitals.  Surely sufficient subject for a whole blog page, but speed is of the essence at the moment because I have a load to do before completing the process and having an operation.  A gallstone blocking the bile duct turned me an interesting shade of orange and instead of the operation I was expecting to remove gall bladder, I ended up being transferred to Heraklion for gastroscopy treatment where they removed the culprit and inserted a stent.  The gall bladder awaits treatment, hence a short time to do lots.  I will jot down my passing thoughts, mainly of hunger and starvation later!  I was kept alive with water and/or water and rice for all but one of the 12 days;  it was agony.  I was bold enough to drink a carton of fruit juice one day (bliss) and got shouted at!

K is OK, the Doctors and Nurses were all much nicer this time around, so it was only the cuisine issue this time around which was a problem.  They expended two Xrays, two ultrasound scans, a MRI scan plus the camera/fishing equipment/stent insertion on me.  All very quick and efficient - since we know from before that the diagnostics here is first class.

I have now translated the Greek Draconian Diet sheet, which is just as well because it differs from the UK version recommended in several key areas, but I am working on another appointment as soon as possible to get the process complete.

Our Kate has madly offered to fly from NZ for one week to see us.  We think she is crazy, but it will be brilliant to see her.

MORE TO FOLLOW ... Wish me luck x

HEATWAVE

As is often the case, when the rain comes down and the weather is horrible in the UK, by some law of meteorology, the weather is the complete opposite in Greece. We are in the midst of a heatwave and trying to muddle along from day to day by doing anything energetic or necessary as early in the day as we can. In such a simple design of house, I am often reminded of advice from the Bible about how to do things. K twice dropped a screw from his specs on the stone floor and declared it 'lost for ever'. (The second time it jumped out of his hands as he tried to fix his glasses). Remembering a story about a woman who loses a coin, I promptly swept the whole area, moved everything, and cleaned every corner and found the microscopic article in the dustpan each time. Great advice, read, learned and inwardly digested! I could write an entire article about the difficulty of finding an efficient, matching dustpan and brush in Crete, but I digress .. the books of scripture did not specify what sort of broom the woman used. Kimon will tell you what a temper tantrum I threw when I saw what I thought was a nice matching shiny blue dustpan and brush in the local store – all neatly encased in cardboard to keep them together – only to unwrap them and find a dustpan and a broom head which was wider than the mouth of the dustpan. I was furious! There are many and diverse brooms and dustpans in the shops but none of them match or work as well as those we take for standard in the UK.

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By 2.00 p.m., we have done as much work around the house as we can and it is time to put up the Siesta sign and have a rest while the sun is at its hottest. At one point I took the silvered window shades out of the car and fixed them over the living room windows with clothes pegs to keep out the mid day sun as far as possible and took them down again at sunset to try and keep the temperature down. We cheer ourselves by reminding each other that this time last year we were restricted to life inside four walls at the University Hospital and are glad to be free this year to spend the day as we choose to without queuing in hot, dusty waiting rooms.

As for the Greek financial crisis, we have seen little evidence of it first hand in Crete. The beaches seem to be very packed locally and people have braved all the untruths printed in the media about having to walk about with masses of cash and none of the services working properly. From our point of view, everything is working much as ever and we hope that things will continue so that the tourist season is a good one. The tavernas are all still serving delicious food and local wines. We have talked to lots of the tourists and asked they if they are having good holidays and they all have replied that it has been no different than previous years. We do wish the foreign press would get their facts right before turning a bad situation even worse. Tourism is one of the few industries that Greece is geared up for at the moment and vital to keep families afloat and people in work. The only change we have seen is the increase in VAT, but this did not seem to be burdensome, especially to tourists from abroad.

Kostas and Angeliki and other neighbours were discussing things in the nearby Kafeneon. They all have gardens and land to keep goats and chickens. All the gardens have masses of extra produce right now and they so wish they could get all this great stuff to their compatriots in the cities on the main land who are feeling the pinch. I puzzled about the logistics of making masses and masses of jars of pasta sauce with some of the overload and how to find ways that it could be shared. Food in jars, packets and tins is very much more expensive here and also, the raw materials of glass jars and other containers. Getting all the stuff together, processed and transported needs a bit of expertise. It must be possible, but time is marching on and all the produce will be long past its best by the end of the week if this heatwave continues. None of my neighbours would dream of buying packaged or tinned food – it is all fresh from their plots and they plant to have food the year round with two or three growing seasons. Our neighbour, Niko the Wood has been setting off early each morning to his roadside booth where water melons, honey dew melons, tomatoes, potatoes and other garden produce are set out for cars to stop and buy. We hope he makes enough money to help get through the lean winter time. There must be good scriptural advice also somewhere about storing foodstuffs during years with good harvests for years of famine. I must check.

K and I had a great swim in the sea today. Granted, it takes a good deal more planning than it did before, but he loved the freedom of walking without sticks and being suspended by the lovely salt water. We realise that we will need to think about a car that can cope with rough tracks though because access to handy swimming places is never easy. Then after a wonderful swim, adjusting to being held up by the water and emerging at the edge of the waves to normal gravity again is a crunch point. We were touched that lots of people stopped and offered us help because my shoulder alone wasn't enough. He felt so good afterwards – and encouraged, we will keep trying.

If you are suffering with moody blues and grey skies in Northern Europe, help your European neighbours and book a holiday to Greece! You will help shore up the economy, have a great time and the local businesses will welcome you with even more enthusiasm and hospitality than ever!

OXI and its Aftermath

Democracy, n. A system of government under which a country's future is decided by the EU and the IMF.

Austerity, n. A technique for siphoning money from the poor to the well-off, the banks etc. Used to make the vulnerable pay for the mistakes of others.

Referendeum, n. 1. A popular vote which is only valid if it goes your way.

2. An evil crime against your true rulers which must be punished by even more austerity.

Debt relief, n. A total impossibility even though it would allow Greece to recover but it ain't going to happen as it means admitting austerity is wrong and the 1% do very nicely out of austerity thank you and how dare you even mention the fact that a large part of Germany's debt was cancelled in 1953 allowing them to become the great nation they are today.

Agreement, n. A chance to completely humiliate a country so as to cause even more misery for ordinary people and, hopefully, bring about regime change so no-one will ever question your right to make money again.

(published via Facebook as EU Dictionary)

* * *

Saturday night was one for ear plugs. No, not because of the uncertainty about Greece's economy, local unrest, the closure of the banks, the media frenzy and horrifying speculations, but because there was a Baptism at the Kentro on the hillside and loud music and celebrations were taking place all night. At 03.15, a loud noise sounding like a lorry falling off a bridge turned out only to be a drunken reveller blowing into the microphone before tuning into a long, loud lament. So after I had woken up with a jump and scouted round the house for a bit, I adjusted my earplugs and tried to get back to sleep. It is very hot at the moment but the tourists are enjoying the beach.

So we checked at intervals during the day via on line newspapers, TV and Facebook, to find out what had been decided. Facebook and Twitter started to get full of invective about selling off the country's assets. The electricity, the water, the Acropolis and so on … the family silver …. Hang on, I thought, the UK did all this decades ago. The UK's had French electricity companies and foreign interests in fuel and food for a while, so how did all this happen to the UK without such a furore? Perhaps we Brits have been beaten into submission from an early age and realise that it will be a fortunate person who emerges from debt during their working lives and gets to live without feeling obligated to some powerful organisation to which megabucks is owed. However, much damage has been done to the unity of Europe and this is to be regretted. I hope that it will not create a backlash for German ex pats and companies in Greece, because there are old, festering wounds that were beginning to be just beyond living memory and all this has stirred things up in a horrible way. That the unelected Committee of the EU can convene on the quiet in order to plot and interfere with the democratic mandate of a member nation and manipulate and threaten its Prime Minister into accepting worse terms than the population were opposed to in the first place, is scary. Other European nations need to take note of this pantomime and make contingency plans!

Another comment from Facebook: "The monetization of assets will be a source that made scheduled repayments of the new loan and the ESM to be created during the term of the new loan total of 50 bn. Euros, of which 25 bn. Euros will be used to repay the recapitalization of banks and other financial assets and 50% of every dollar that remains (ie 50% of the 25 billion. euros) will be used to reduce the debt to GDP ratio and the remaining 50% will be used for investment. This fund will be established in Greece and the Greek managing authorities under the supervision of the competent European Institutions."

So let me get this straight. Greece borrows 50 billion from the banks, gives back 37.5 billion to the banks and invests 12.5 billion, presumably into the banking system.

Am I missing something here?

We are all missing something. It's a system that cannot possibly work for anyone other than Bankers. Have we heard any update on this year's bonuses?

I had a Dental appointment in Rethymnon on Monday morning. I heard two elderly ladies talking and saying that they could not get their 60 euros today because there was nothing in any of the Banks and to be honest the banks never had 10 euro notes, so 50 was the limit. In practical terms, the bother with the banks is the major problem right now and it is the locals who are taking the brunt, since tourists are not affected. On a local level, we know that the shop keepers would not bat an eyelid if people could not pay for groceries until next week. Most people do remember and settle up when they can. K and I went to Perama to get lab tests done and visit the Health Centre. We are back to this because the doctor who held a weekly surgery in our village for the old folk had to stop. The shortage of doctors and lack of pay meant that she had to move elsewhere. We managed to get money from the ATM in Perama, but there were queues of confused elderly people who had never used an ATM before and had no idea what to do. They are used to queueing up in the Bank and talking to people. It is all very hard for them, but they are hardy types and will survive. It is the elderlies' pension money that is keeping entire families afloat at the moment since there are no welfare payments for the unemployed, sick or disabled and never have been. The shops were all well stocked though, and the fruit and vegetables are at their peak at the moment. Tourists need have no fear that their holidays will not be as good as ever since all the Greeks know that this is their only bread and butter and will bend over backwards to welcome them.

Rik the Builder turned up while I was at the Dentist this morning bearing gifts from his kitchen garden. The soil is so fertile in sunny Crete that we will never starve! His harvest meant that he had more veggies than he knew what to do with. Wonderful stuff which means I will be cooking and preserving tomorrow. Thank goodness for the larger freezer. With only a Greek bank account Rik is completely walloped at the moment since lots of ex pats had building work done and they are unable to transfer money from outside Greece into Greece to pay for it. In the short term, he is owed thousands. On the plus side, his lovely wife has unexpectedly found some new part time work, so they are OK for now.

We are not sure how this will all pan out, but the idea of Europe being chummy allies has been badly damaged and we realise now that we are ruled by large conglomerate organisations and banks. Shylock will be taking his pound of flesh for many years to come.

YES or NO!

Facebook is simply bursting with links to TV interviews, speeches, twitters and blogs about the forthcoming referendum for the Greek people to decide whether they want to say Yes – to more years of austerity, and hard times or No and cast away the suggested proposals and protection of the EU and try to function alone with a vastly devalued currency.

In other words, Greece is perched between a rock and a hard place. None of the options are likely to solve the problem which – as most people will have gathered by now – has all to do with a monetary system which bears no relationship with reality. It is as if we are all in some bizarre symbolic version of Monopoly Wars with nations raising unimaginable quantities of banknotes based on no security whatsoever. I have to keep reminding ourselves that there is still food growing, bread in the shops and tourists largely unaffected by the drama of what is going on in people's lives. In addition, Crete is less affected by the austerity measures than the mainland because crops are still growing, tourists are still enjoying themselves and our Cretan friends with their rich Minoan history and tradition live close to their land and smallholdings. They do not suffer quite as much as the many others who left the villages, went to University, trained for professions and now find that these are the first people to find their urban lives so harshly affected. We have asked all our local friends about it. Niko at the Pharmacy says that for a short while it will be difficult, but he is optimistic. K now has to pay for his prescriptions in advance, while supply lines are shaky. Marina at the Cafe in Panormo says, “We don't want any more austerity but so long as we have barley rusks, tomatoes, olive oil and feta, we will survive OK”. Kimon's mates at the village Kafeneon talk about it constantly and nobody can really decide how to get out of this impasse.

Lots of graphs and economic explanations tell us that of all the bail out money received, only a small fraction of it actually helps anyone in Greece since it is paid back in interest to big banks in Germany and France and many other countries, including the UK before anything is available centrally. If you can believe statistics. Others raise the historical issue of the Bank of Greece's cancellation of a large debt owed by Germany after the second world war when things were bad and Germany was in the process of rebuilding the country. By Tuesday, there was so much divisive stuff that I turned the computer off in the end; none of this was helpful but it did launch me into a Utopian daydream about all countries around the world cancelling each others' debts and what the answers on the balance sheets would be in … Cloud Cuckoo Land.

It seems that Europe needs to work out what its priorities are and whether unity and security can be sustained under an economic system which, in spite of so many rules and regulations, manages to penalise the poor while the rich have all the aces to take evasive action. Do we really want to perpetuate a system of growth and inflation if the majority have a poor quality of life, in spite of what their bank balance tells them? I think quite a few people across the world admire Greece for getting people to stop and think about it.

Most of us expats do not have a vote either in our home countries or here in our country of residence, which is just as well as we have no idea how to solve the problem. We had a couple of days this week where there were some petrol supply blips and the banks have been closed, but in truth everyone we know kept minimal money in their Greek banks for some time now. This has all been going on for so long and in spite of pensions cuts, masses of extra taxes raised and austerity, Greece seems to be more indebted than ever.

Kimon was discussing the news with our friend Vassilis in Bali and they both said how sad they were that now we had to lock our houses each day when we went out and how times were changing. Worry did not stop Vassilis and Katerina from giving us a huge bag of oranges to take away with us from their trees. Kostas at the shop heard that I had learned how to make Kolokithiakeftedes – courgette rissoles - (delicious) and so cut half a dozen beauties from his kitchen garden for me to cook with. He refused to let K pay for them!

There is no price on love, care or friendship and fortunately, no rationing of that! None of this has spoiled the holiday of our son Leo and his friends who have been with us here in Crete this week.

The most moving photo from Facebook was a queue of people – not at the cash machine or at the garage but queuing up outside a church to light prayer candles. At last, we have realised that only God can sort this one out!

 

INVASIONS ….

Yassus from the blistering heat of Crete. The clouds seem to have disappeared from the mountain ranges and the snow on the peaks is getting quite sparse now. After such a winter and spring though, there is much more lush green than usual and the roadsides still have a few bunches of coloured wild flowers until the heat finishes them off and it is all burnt ochre and dried grass again.

The Croziers have been out and about, partied a bit, explored the weekly new fish and chips option available on Wednesdays in Panormo set up by a local taverna who had to move and wanted to encourage business at his new venue.

We have met lots of people at Vinzi's Cafe up on the battlement clifftop in Panormo. Loads of tourists, ex pats (why so many from Yorkshire, we ask?) relatives and friends visiting from home and soaking up the sun for their short week and wondering whether they could find a way to stay for longer! It is great to catch up and practice our dodgy Greek but our memories do not retain new words for long. Fortunately discussion of the weather and the state of the roads seems to be sufficient for day to day purposes!

The village school broke up for the summer last Friday night and had a big concert, barbecue and prize giving in the village square. K went for a while to listen to the music and have a chat with people but I stayed in the cool at home, out of the range of mosquitoes! It seemed to be a jolly party and nice that all the village is involved. Schools broken up means much more sound of children's voices round and about and strings of youngsters lining up to jump off the end of the harbour wall in Panormo. I like it - and all the children are personable, polite and look after one another, whatever age they are. It is so good to see. Even the youngest of the school kids want to practice their English and (giggling to each other) say 'Hello' and 'Goodbye'.

On Saturday, our dear friend Angeliki from the Kafeneon turned up at the door really early and presented us with eight lovely eggs. Wonderful. I decided to make some Oaty Raisin Cookies to say “thank you”. So I put the new kitchen and various gadgets to use and whipped up some cookie dough. As soon as they were golden brown and cooled enough, I took her a plate round. After two minutes she returned with two more boiled eggs! I really cannot get used to the fact that Angeliki and Kostas do not like to be thanked for anything! Anyway, I tried.

“Afta ta cookies enai yia na po efharisto yia tis omorfes afga”

Two of us made the road trip to Church in Kefala on Sunday and, as we had a margin of extra time, took the old road from Rethymnon to Chania which takes in a few delightful villages and beautiful countryside. We emerged just at the turning for Georgopoli and continued from there arriving in good time for the service to begin. The journey there and back is a great chance to chat and catch up, so it was a good morning from all points of view.

Niko-the-Wood managed to get his tyre fixed at the garage in Perama after his wood delivery (see previous blog) and has been seen driving back and forth past the house with wood, tools and sheaves of bamboo. Eventually K pieced together the information he had been gathering and realised that Niko is building one of the roadside booths which spring up about this time every year. We often wonder why the villagers plant so many melons when they end up having to give them away, so this is a new innovation for him. Anyway, he needed to borrow our step ladder to finish the work on his new shop, so we will take a photo when we next drive past. We sampled this year's vintage of melon at a lovely party last Saturday both pink water melon and the yellow piponi variety which were fabulous – cool, sweet, juicy and irresistible.

The sea is now wonderful for swimming and indeed it is hard to get through the heat of each day without stopping for a dip at some point. Kimon has taken his first swim for two years. It took a bit of manoeuvring but we got to and from a beach chair without too much difficulty and had a nice quiet morning before the lunch crowd turned up and the beaches were jam packed when we made a smart getaway.

Nationally, Greece approaches yet another deadline for repaying of ECF loans. We cannot predict how all this is going to play out and it has all been going on for so long now. It's hardly surprising that markets have got the jitters and youngsters are disillusioned with no prospect of work. Pensions have been cut already, unemployment is very high. It seems that many young people are at home and extended families are reliant on pensions of the older generation to survive as there is no other income. Locals are concerned that foreigners think that they will not have the amenities they need for a good holiday and there will be no cash in the cash machines. There have been no problems of any kind for us so far and the businesses are all as good as ever and our hosts as warm and welcoming. Then on Friday we received a phone call from a friend who had been contacted to say that all Greek cash machines were being shut down from Friday and banks would close over the weekend and on Monday. We phoned all our friends in case they were short of cash. Shortly after this, we were contacted by the UK Overseas Pensions Office to check on our contact details. Immediately on the alert, I asked a few searching questions … what did he know that we didn't know? In the meantime we have seen photos of people withdrawing cash from machines after the deadline without any problems at all. We wonder where all this scaremongering is coming from. We hope it is not from the British Press approaching the not-much-happening-in-world-so-lets-make-it-up-silly-season. People in our village are not at all worried and Nikos' Melon Stall is full of fabulous home grown produce fresh from the fields. Everyone we meet is enjoying a wonderful holiday. No-one here wants to leave Europe or thinks that it will happen. Hoping that I am not recording "Famous Last Words", let us hope that there is some equitable way out of this confusion.

.VISITORS FROM NZ AND IMBROS GORGE VENTURE

 We have been busy with heaps of happenings in the past week here in summery Crete. We had been preparing to meet the in-laws of our daughter Kate (all currently living in New Zealand). Marty and Pauline had embarked on a trip of a lifetime to take their long awaited overseas experience and the chance to see as much of Europe as possible. They chose a cruise which came to Crete so they could see for themselves where New Zealanders who fought in the WWII Battle of Crete would have been. They both had relatives and family friends who had served in Crete during the war so this was a very special time for them.

People from abroad always ask for our address – well you would, wouldn't you? But in our village, there are no street names or house numbers so we decided to wait in the Square opposite the school.

We had proposed lunch at our place not having any idea of their schedule. Pauline had said “Don't go to any trouble”, but in truth, we needed to smarten ourselves up a bit. All our porch walls were looking horrid after the new roof works, the muddy woodpile and winter rains. Embarrassingly, the bathroom ceiling had suspicious evidence of a few spots of mould and we didn't want to look too shabby. So lots of painting and cleaning went on over the weekend and cooking for an ad hoc instantly available meal. Our bathroom and kitchen positively sparkled while all the mops and buckets sagged against the garden wall looking weary and beaten after the full frontal attack.

The weekend weather was a lot better than the previous few days and on Monday all the clouds and mists cleared up to produce a fabulous Spring Day for them. We waited in the village square as prearranged and the taxi turned up about half an hour late giving us a bare 35 minutes or so to walk back to the house, catch up on their news, eat the quickest chicken salad in history and guzzle a cup of tea and walk back to the square again to meet up with the taxi. There had been a muddle at the port office, the taxi driver had been waiting in the wrong place and had wasted two valuable hours of their precious day. Anyway, they loved what they saw, got to Souda and Marty even started asking about real estate prices in Crete just before they left! We heard later that they arrived back at the ship just as the gang planks were being raised … Phew! It was lovely to see them even for such a short time!

Tuesday was an Art School day, but our numbers are a bit depleted and we wondered about a drive to find some new students. Anyway, I had a delicious morning out in the sunshine under my hat painting one of my favourite corners outside and trying to get acrylics right before the sun dried them quickly on my palette.

On Wednesday, a group of us had planned a walk down the Imbros Gorge before the weather became too hot and dry. There are usually a few weeks at the beginning and end of the season when the rains have ceased and before the sun does not roast you too much. We all took sensible precautions and set off as early as possible. Hats, Water bottles, stout shoes, walking poles and back packs on board, we set off looking very chipper. Gorge walking seems to be quite a big tourist industry and there are places where you can call for a taxi at the bottom of the gorges (or catch a boat in the case of the Samaria which ends where there is no road access) so having left most cars at the bottom, driven all the drivers to the top and leaving one car at the top, we were at last ready to set off. The approach is down a set of steps with a rather wobbly hand rail and I wondered if it would get any easier once we were down at the bottom of these. As Gorges go, Imbros is supposed to be one of the easier to tackle – especially compared with the Samaria. It is about 8 km long, has lots of interesting mini climates and habitats on the way through. The whole walk is downhill, which seems easy but after a long winding hike over largish boulders and slippery rocks and scree, my hips and knees were creaking a bit. At one shady spot, we sat for a rest under some trees and I ventured to ask “Are we nearly there yet?”. We were, apparently after a couple of hours at our slow pace, only half way. (Inward groan!). However, the plant life, trees and birds were magical and overhanging cave-like arches, whole streams of ancient lava-type rock under foot and parts where you did feel as if you were climbing down waterfalls (which I suspect is the case in the winter wet months) made it an ambitious outing for someone who has been at home and not doing very much other than housework and painting for a longish time. My feet survived well, aching all over at the finish (but no blisters) and the narrow gorge opened out just a short drive from Hora Sfakion where we sat down to a very late lunch and chose a taverna which had the best shelter from the wind.  It was a beautiful day;  I was glad to have experienced the atmosphere of the gorge but it is anything but a stroll in the country!

On Thursday, I could hardly get around the house as my legs were so stiff and took a quiet day to rest a bit. The daily round since the Imbros walk has been a bit more domesticated but --- the eternity ring which I thought I had lost in the icy cold sea at Matala, turned up magically in such an unexpected spot, tucked behind a down pipe by the stone stairs outside and I am rejoicing. Yippee!

RATHER A LOT TO EAT …

Domestic chores have not been any sort of antidote to all the partying of the past week or two. Lots of cooking; lots of cleaning but an elephant's sufficiency for eating too. Day by day we have been preparing to receive visitors who are arriving in Crete via cruise ships and there has been a lot to do inside and outside the house before they get here - in between lots and lots of eating out.

At the weekend, we had the Annual CIC Red Cross Coffee Morning, which was a tricky occasion for our friend Ev since it was the first year that Bob had not been taking the stage. Bob was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer soon after last year's coffee morning and nobody could believe how quickly the disease had taken him away from us. So with extra efforts we had all been cooking our socks off and tables at Camping Elizabeth were groaning with all the goodies which had been prepared. All our 10 euros entrance fees and donated raffle prizes made a good show and we raised in the region of 1200 euros for the Red Cross and Samaritans. It was so good to know that we could still do a good job, even without Bob at the helm and Ev carried off all the compere-ing with great aplomb – she was quite amazing. Despite the strong sunshine, it was still not quite warm enough to go swimming in the sea yet (and we were all a bit full of cake).

All the plants have been blooming upstairs and downstairs and we have enjoyed the improving weather with gusto. I took a trip to a large house-ware shop with our friends the Brods and their friends last week. The weather forecast had not been good for that day, so we all had umbrellas and raincoats just in case and stopped at the Brods' favourite roadhouse for hot chocolates and coffees halfway there. The store was brilliant with lots of great furniture, kitchen ware and just the kitchen stools I had been looking for – sadly in flat pack form but hey ho – so I bought two and we abandoned our idea of touring Chania because the weather was windy and wet. Stopping at Cretan Corner on the way home, we shared a lovely meal together and I was glad to get to a place that I had heard of many times but never visited before. The lady proprietor was English married to a Greek man and they had a very nice taverna in a village called Aptera. On a good day, the view would have been wonderful but … it was not a good day for landscapes. When I arrived home K said there had been an almighty thunderstorm in Skepasti and flooding in various parts of Crete.

On Wednesday, we set off for Heraklion having booked an overnight stay in a hotel in the centre. We killed two birds with one stone by dropping off K's large envelope containing the MRI scan films (sheets of them) for the Oncology Department at the University Hospital. Sneekily, we parked in the hospital car park and hailed a taxi from outside the door to the centre of the city since the traffic is always so very busy and we were not sure where we were heading for.

The hotel turned out to be very comfortable, modern and reasonably close to the shopping centre and large Lions Fountain. The centre was full of tourists and students and the atmosphere was lively, however trying to get cash from an ATM was not straightforward and lots of the machines had run out of money. We hear news reports that national loan payments are being made with difficulty and that local authorities are being asked to donate their education budgets to help the national government pay their dues. This is all very confusing because everywhere hotels and businesses have been modernised and look very prosperous, every road on the island, however remote, seems to have been channelled out to receive fibre optic cables (even around the mountain tops), so we can't work out easily the true state of things.  It seems best to take it one day at a time.

Anyway, after this digression, and back in Heraklion we got up early on Thursday, took full advantage of a sumptuous buffet breakfast (!) and took a taxi to the port where all the security staff had been alerted about our arrival.   We were to visit our nephew Kieran who has recently started cadet training with merchant navy and is doing his first stint at sea on the Star Pride of the Windstar Cruises group. We had been reminding each other “not to forget the chocolate” for several days since he said that it was the only thing that he needed and we had bought a small cold bag, stocked up with a few lots of tuck to keep body and soul together! The ship was very smart, he looked happy and busy. We had a bit of a wait while the crew needed to do a fire drill and life boat drill as part of their port inspection. Bells were going, hooters sounding and all sorts of personnel were involved doing lots of different things. We sat in a plush lounge watching the sea, reading a wonderful collection of atlases and books and being plied with coffee and soft drinks while all this was going on. Yes, I could quite imagine myself enjoying a nice cruise (probably beyond our pockets, sadly) and K was happy talking about marine engines and other nautical things while I enjoyed looking about me. Eventually, Kieran appeared again and was given time off and we jumped in a taxi to the centre of town and found a good place to have a slap up Greek meal! The ship had come from Piraeus and the Pelopponese and would be off to Santorini, Rhodes and Istanbul after Crete. I did my usual trick of falling over (dodgy Greek steps) and disappeared out of the shop and on to the pavement – fortunately not breaking anything. We stocked up on souvenirs, and made sure that Kieran got back to his ship in good time – the taxi driver gave him an enormous fresh orange as he got out of the car. A souvenir shop lady had given him a free gift fridge magnet.  He was overcome by everyone's friendliness. I am horrified at how quickly I have begun to take the overwhelming hospitality for granted. And on Friday, we went to a lunchtime birthday party and ate more cake!!! Any suggestions for diet plans gratefully received since all our good resolutions are falling by the wayside.

We have two more cruise visitors due on Monday at our house. We have been trailing them on Facebook through Italy, the Aegean and Greece and will hear more about their adventures for the next blog.